Always stir the paint well in the can before application. Only thin your paint if specified and with the appropriate thinner. Dip your brush, roller or paintbrush partially into the can (do not dip it completely) and remove any excess paint from the edge of the can. This will ensure that the right amount of paint is applied evenly, without running.

If you're using a roller, start by applying the paint in vertical stripes, then horizontal stripes. Finish vertically from bottom to top.

Only use a brush in places you can't reach with a roller! Your brush will leave "corded" marks, which are more visible than when painting with a roller.

To paint your interior walls, use an 8 to 12 mm microfibre paint roller. For woodwork or metalwork, choose a 6 mm short-haired paint roller or foam rollers.

For façades and irregular surfaces, opt for a paint roller with long bristles, around 20 mm.

What about brushes?

Use them to paint small, hard-to-reach areas such as window frames and door frames. The range of brushes is extremely varied, with many different qualities and uses. To make the right choice, ask your New Goffin dealer for advice.

Yes, it's essential to wash your new brushes and rollers under water. No matter how good they are, they will always get rid of one or two hairs or fluff. Better to leave them in the sink than on your work!

Be sure to dry your materials thoroughly before applying the paint.

To preserve paint residues and prevent crusting, make sure you close the lid properly and place the pot upside down. This way, the paint fills the joint between the pot and the lid.

To estimate the quantities of paint required, first calculate the surface area to be painted by multiplying the height or length of the walls by the width. Once all the measurements have been taken, add up the total surface area, not forgetting to deduct doors and windows.

Any doubts? Simply take the measurements of your rooms, wall widths and ceiling heights, and we'll take care of the rest!

On a degreased surface, apply a synthetic paint such as Trisatin or Fassilux Satin directly. Avoid latex and acrylic, which give an undried appearance. The surface will remain sticky. Avoid polyurethane paint either, as the paint film will break.

For paint to stick to tiles, glass or any other non-porous surface, use an acrylic product such as Pegalink (Mathys) or a synthetic product such as Pegaprim Isofix (Mathys). Paint the well-degreased surface (don't use white spirit, it's greasy!) with a thin coat. Finish with a coat of lacquer.

Stripping can be cold or hot.

The hot method involves using a blowtorch. Be careful not to burn the substrate!

For cold stripping, there are chemical strippers, which are very widespread and more environmentally friendly than in the past. It's usually applied with a brush and left on for a few minutes. When the surface starts to blister, you remove it with a scraper.

Then sand the surface to ensure a smooth surface before applying the new paint.

Solvent-based paints have a very good stretching effect (the paint stretches evenly). Another advantage of this type of paint is its high mechanical resistance. The disadvantage, however, is the fairly strong odour it gives off. Most solvent-based paints can only be covered after 24 hours, which can be a problem for certain types of work.

Fill holes and cracks with plaster and a spatula. There are many different types of plaster. For example, synthetic coatings of the "grease coating" type are best used on wooden surfaces because of their mirror finish. Once dry, sand your coating well to obtain a perfectly smooth surface. Don't forget to clean up the sanding dust before painting.

There are now products that allow you to create old-style patinas quickly and easily using a sponge (Fair Decor,...). Ask us for advice.

Apply your adhesive a few centimetres wider than your wallpaper strip. This way, you'll be sure there's glue everywhere without having to lift your freshly laid strip. Make sure you press down from the inside out! Insist on the same soaking time for all the strips. If there are any discrepancies, the paper will relax differently. Don't forget to apply glue to the wall if it's non-woven.

To estimate the number of rolls of wallpaper you need, calculate the area of all the walls, remembering to subtract the surface area of doors and windows. Then divide the surface area obtained by the surface area of the roll (5m²). Always add an extra roll for safety. Patterned papers have joints whose distance varies according to the design. These distances are indicated on the back of the paper and must be taken into account when calculating the number of rolls, by adding this measurement to the height of the room.

When the width of a strip exceeds the edge of a wall corner, measure the gap between the edge of the last strip and the wall corner. Transfer this measurement to the back of the strip to be glued and cut a strip of paper of the corresponding width. Position the strip of paper, aligning the motifs (in the case of a jump joint).

Start by laying the longest strips. Continue laying on both sides of the stairwell. Take into account the slope of the staircase when measuring the strips. They should be long enough to reach the skirting board.

First wallpaper the inside walls by cutting the paper to size. Leave a small margin along the vertical sides. Tape overhanging areas in the window embrasure. Trim the paper flush with the studs.

Prepare uneven or shiny surfaces well by sanding and priming. Do not wallpaper over a rough surface; always apply a primer first. You can also paint over the base, using the same colour as your wallpaper, in which case there will be a slight indentation between the strips.

In general, this applies to strippable papers. They require a longer soaking time (around 15 to 20 minutes). If partial delamination occurs, there is an adhesive for wallpaper joints. If the peeling is too severe, contact your New Goffin dealer.

It is essential to place two strips of carpet side by side, in the same direction. To check the direction, simply stroke the carpet and it will change colour according to the direction.

Vacuum the carpet once or twice a week in high-traffic areas and once a week over the entire surface. Take care of the carpet from day one to ensure it lasts a long time. Never pull a thread but cut it with scissors. Treat sunken areas with steam and then brush with a stiff brush. Always roll up a carpet rather than fold it.

Act directly by removing most of the stain with a spoon or knife. Then dab or massage lightly with an absorbent cloth to bring up the liquids. Warm water or shampoo is usually enough to remove a fresh stain. After this first step, allow the carpet to dry thoroughly before moving on to the next stage if necessary. (Machine cleaning)

Degrease: carefully rub off old layers of wax and greasy stains with steel wool soaked in turpentine. Then wipe with a dry cloth. If necessary, strip.

Stripping: use a stripping gel with a brush. Wait a few minutes for the product to take effect, then remove the old coats using a scraper or steel wool. Finish the operation with steel wool soaked in turpentine. If necessary, you can also sand the wood with 120-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface.

Treatment: now that the wood is bare, it's time to treat it. Apply a curative and preventive insecticide by brush to interior and exterior surfaces.

Filling: apply wood filler with a spatula. To restore missing areas, remove the damaged part of the wood, sand and then fill in. For even more damaged areas, you may need to use an epoxy filler. Allow to dry, then sand to give a flat, smooth surface.

Applying the right product: There are several solutions. Either a woodwork stain. The stain adds depth to the wood grain. But it cannot be left as a finish. Or a colourless or tinted varnish. This will form a film on your wood. You need to be sure of your choice, because if you want to change the product, you'll have to strip or sand again to get to the bare wood. Or a wax. Beeswax, antique wax. Patinas wear relatively quickly and require more frequent maintenance. Or oil. The most effective if you like the bare wood! Raw-effect oil will not change the colour of your wood and will protect it effectively.

Wire brushes can be used to remove rust from metals, remove damaged layers of paint from masonry and remove impurities from façades. Coating knives can be used to fill holes, cracks, joints, etc.

Scrapers can be used to remove old layers of non-adherent paint and hardened residues (cement and other plasterwork).

High-pressure cleaners are particularly useful for major cleaning jobs (roofs, façades, gutters or floors). Avoid using it on wood, as you risk damaging it permanently if your pressure washer is too powerful!